Kyoto

Cherry blossom (late March – early April) and autumn foliage (mid-November) are the peak periods — spectacularly beautiful but expensive and crowded. Book 6+ months ahead for these windows. May and October are excellent: mild weather, no school holidays, and the city at a liveable pace. Summer (July–August) is hot and humid, but Gion Matsuri in July is worth it for the spectacle. Winter (December–February) is cold but magical — snow-dusted temple gardens with almost no crowds.

Kyoto's bus network is excellent and covers the whole city — a day pass ($6) is usually the best value. The subway runs north-south and east-west. Cycling is ideal for the flat downtown and river areas — rental shops are everywhere for $7–10/day. Walking between Higashiyama temples is the best way to experience the district. Taxis are available but expensive. The JR Pass covers the Shinkansen from Tokyo but not Kyoto's local buses.

Kyoto's food culture centres on kaiseki — the traditional multi-course meal that is Japan's answer to haute cuisine. A kaiseki lunch at a second-tier establishment costs $50–80 and is extraordinary. Nishiki Market (the 'Kitchen of Kyoto') is four blocks of food stalls selling pickles, tofu, street snacks, and green tea everything. Staying in a ryokan (traditional inn) is Kyoto's version of the experience economy — tatami floors, yukata robes, futon beds, and a multi-course dinner included.