Amalfi Coast

May–June and September–October are far superior to the July–August peak. The famous coast road has been closed to private cars in summer since 2022 — you must use buses, ferries, or organised transfers. Hotel prices in July and August can be extraordinary ($500–800/night for basic rooms). May is the best month: lemons ripe, wisteria blooming, sea warming up, and the road fully accessible. October is also excellent — local life resumes, prices drop, and the Mediterranean light in autumn is remarkable.

The coast road (SS163) is notoriously narrow, winding, and congested. The ferry service between towns is the best solution in high season — Positano to Amalfi takes 35 minutes and avoids the traffic entirely. Public buses (SITA) run frequently but require patience and are extremely crowded in peak season. Water taxis are available for private hire between any two points. Walking is possible on the path network above the road — the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) is one of Italy's finest walks.

Amalfi Coast cuisine is defined by its lemons, its seafood, and its pasta. The Sfusato Amalfitano lemon is a DOP-protected variety — enormous, sweet, and the basis for the best limoncello in Italy. Freselle (dried bread rings with tomatoes, olive oil, and seafood) is the region's snack. Fresh pasta with swordfish, sea urchin, or clams at a clifftop restaurant overlooking the sea is the quintessential Amalfi experience. Budget here is relative — even simple meals cost $30+ per person.