Dubrovnik

May–June and September–October are far superior to the summer peak. July and August see up to 10,000 cruise ship passengers descending simultaneously on a walled city of 1,500 residents — the Old Town becomes nearly impossible. The city imposed visitor caps and cruise ship restrictions from 2024, which helps, but the summer months remain extreme. May is ideal: warm (22–26°C), sea swimmable from late May, and the city operating at a civilised pace. October is equally excellent — warm, quieter, and the Adriatic still swimmable.

Dubrovnik is the southern terminus of the Dalmatian ferry network, making island hopping easy. Hvar (2–3 hours by ferry/catamaran): the most glamorous island in Croatia — medieval Old Town, lavender fields, celebrity yachts. Korčula (2–2.5 hours): quieter, more authentic, supposedly Marco Polo's birthplace — excellent wine and seafood. Mljet: a national park island of two interconnected lakes — one of Croatia's finest landscapes. Lokrum: 15 minutes offshore from Dubrovnik Old Town — botanical garden, peacocks, naturist beach.

Staying inside the Old Town walls is the most atmospheric option — but Old Town accommodation is limited, expensive, and the narrow streets echo with noise until late in peak season. The Lapad peninsula (15 minutes by bus) offers the best value hotels with beach access and a quieter atmosphere. Babin Kuk is the resort area — more removed but quiet. The most interesting option is to stay in a private apartment outside the walls and walk the Old Town in the early morning and late evening, when the cruise-ship visitors have gone.